Torres del Paine: A First-Timer's Guide to Patagonia

The last hour to the base of the towers is a scramble over loose boulders, and for most of it you see nothing but rock and the back of the person in front. Then the trail tips over a ridge and there they are: three granite spires rising straight out of a glacial lake the colour of jade, often with cloud tearing off the top. Everyone goes quiet. That moment is why people cross the world to southern Chile, and this Torres del Paine guide is everything I wish someone had told me before I went.

Where it is and how to get there

Torres del Paine National Park sits in the far south of Chilean Patagonia, in the Magallanes region. It is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, and it covers mountains, glaciers, lakes, rivers and huge open steppe. Most visitors arrive in Punta Arenas or Puerto Natales, the small town that serves as the gateway. From Natales it is a couple of hours by road to the park entrances, by bus, transfer or hire car.

Spend at least one night in Puerto Natales either side of the park. You will want it to buy gas canisters, check the forecast and, afterwards, eat a large plate of lamb.

The famous towers, and the other views

The park takes its name from the Torres, three granite towers carved by ice. But the views that stay with most people are spread across the whole range:

• The Cuernos del Paine, the 'horns', with dark sedimentary rock capping pale granite, as if someone had dipped them in ink.
• Grey Glacier, a wall of blue ice at the head of Lago Grey, dropping icebergs into the water.
• The French Valley, a natural amphitheatre ringed by peaks, with hanging glaciers that crack and rumble through the day.
• Lago Pehoé, a lake of milky turquoise, with the Cuernos rising straight behind it.

Choosing your route

The W Trek

The most popular multi-day route is the W, named for the shape it traces on the map. It links the Base Las Torres, the French Valley and Grey Glacier, usually over four or five days, sleeping in refugios or campsites. It is challenging but not technical, and the highlights come one after another.

The O Circuit

The O, or full circuit, loops around the back of the massif as well as taking in the W, and usually takes around a week or more. It is quieter, wilder and harder, with the high John Gardner Pass and a long view over the Southern Patagonian Ice Field. The back section is walked in one direction only, with limited places, so it needs more planning.

Day visits

If you do not want to sleep in the park, you can still see a great deal. The hike to the Base Las Torres is a long, hard day there and back. A catamaran crosses Lago Pehoé, and boats also run towards Grey Glacier. With a car, the roads between the lakes give viewpoint after viewpoint, and guanacos almost at the window.

In Patagonia, you plan for the weather, and then the weather plans for you.

When to go

The main season runs from spring to autumn in the southern hemisphere, roughly October to April. December to February brings the longest days and the warmest weather, along with the most people and, often, the strongest wind. November and March are a good compromise: fewer hikers and softer light. In autumn, the southern beech forests turn red and gold. Winter visits are possible but very different, with shorter days and limited services, so check what is open.

The wind, and the weather

The wind in Torres del Paine is not a figure of speech. Gusts can knock adults off their feet, especially near Lago Pehoé and on exposed passes. Hold onto anything loose, carry trekking poles, and do not set up a tent in an open spot without proper pegs. The weather also changes fast: sun, sleet and rain can all arrive in the same morning. Bring layers and expect to use them all.

Booking and park rules

This is the part that catches first-timers out. Refugios and campsites on the W and O must be booked in advance, and they are run by different operators, so you may need to book with more than one. Rangers check reservations, and you cannot simply turn up and camp. Park entry tickets are also bought ahead, through Chile's national park service, CONAF. Book as early as you can for peak months.

Fire rules are strict for good reason. Large wildfires started by visitors have burned big areas of the park in the past. Cook only in designated areas, never light a fire, and carry out all your rubbish, including toilet paper.

Wildlife

Guanacos, the wild relatives of the llama, are everywhere on the steppe. Look for rheas, the large flightless birds, grey foxes and Andean condors circling overhead. Pumas live here too, and the park is one of the better places in the world to see one, usually with a specialist tracker. If you do meet a puma on the trail, stay calm, make yourself big and do not run.

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Good to know

• Book refugios, campsites and park entry well ahead, especially for December to February.
• Pack for four seasons: a waterproof shell, warm layers, a hat, gloves and sunscreen.
• Break in your boots before you go. The trails are rocky and long.
• Start the Base Las Torres hike early to beat the crowds and catch the best light.
• Carry cash and a card. Services inside the park are limited.
• Check conditions and the forecast in Puerto Natales before you set out.

Torres del Paine asks a lot: planning, legs and patience with the weather. Give it what it asks and it gives back more than almost any landscape on earth. Go once, and you will understand why so many people go twice.