7 Things to Do If You Find Yourself in Spain

Spain is one of those countries where you can do everything wrong and still have a wonderful time. Eat at six, rush the museums, stay on the coast, and you will leave happy. But a few small choices make the difference between a good trip and one you talk about for years. Here are the things to do in Spain that we come back to again and again.

1. Eat on Spanish time

Lunch is the big meal, usually between two and four. Dinner starts around nine, often later, and on weekends restaurants are still full at midnight. If you show up at seven, you will be eating alone with the other tourists.

The easiest way to adjust is to do what locals do in between: a caña and a small plate at a bar around eight. In Madrid, walk down Cava Baja in La Latina and stop wherever looks busy. Stand at the counter, order one thing, then move on. That is a tapas crawl, and it is one of the best evenings you can have in the country.

2. See the Alhambra, and book it early

The Alhambra in Granada is the one place in Spain we would tell anyone not to miss. The Nasrid Palaces, with their carved plaster, tiled walls and courtyards of still water, are some of the most beautiful rooms ever built. Entry to the palaces is timed, and tickets regularly sell out weeks ahead in spring and autumn.

Buy only from the official Alhambra ticket site, bring the passport you booked with, and arrive at the palace gate a little before your slot. They do not let you in late. Afterwards, walk down to the Mirador de San Nicolás in the Albaicín to see the whole complex glowing at sunset.

3. Spend a slow afternoon in Seville

Seville is hot, loud, perfumed with orange blossom in spring, and impossible not to like. Start at the Real Alcázar, a royal palace that is still used by the Spanish royal family, then lose an hour in its gardens. From there it is a short walk to the cathedral and the Giralda tower, and a slightly longer one to the Plaza de España, the enormous half-circle of tiled benches built for the 1929 exhibition.

In summer, do all of this before noon. Between July and August, afternoon temperatures in Seville often pass 40°C, and the city sensibly goes indoors until evening.

4. Eat pintxos in San Sebastián

San Sebastián, or Donostia in Basque, has one of the highest concentrations of Michelin stars in the world. You do not need any of them. The real experience is in the Parte Vieja, the old town, where every bar covers its counter in pintxos: small bites on bread, held together with a toothpick.

The trick is that the best things are often not on the counter. Look at the chalkboard and order the hot dishes to order, one per bar. Then walk along La Concha beach, which may be the prettiest city beach in Europe.

One drink, one bite, next bar. That is the whole method.

5. Go inside the Sagrada Família

From the street, Gaudí's basilica in Barcelona is impressive. Inside, it is something else entirely. The columns branch like trees, and the stained glass throws blue and green light on one side and red and orange on the other. Go in the late morning or afternoon when the sun is strongest.

Tickets are timed and sell out, so book ahead on the official Sagrada Família site. The same goes for the monumental zone of Park Güell, which now needs a ticket too.

6. Find a cala and swim

A cala is a small cove, and Spain's coastline is full of them. The famous beaches get crowded, but a short walk along the coast usually leads somewhere quieter. On the Costa Brava, the coastal path between Calella de Palafrugell and Llafranc passes several. On Menorca, the coves on the south coast have water so clear the boats look like they are floating.

Go in June or September if you can. The water is warm, and the crowds are half what they are in August, when much of Spain is on holiday at the same time.

7. Cross the country by high-speed train

Spain has one of the largest high-speed rail networks in the world, and it is the best way to see more than one city. Madrid to Seville takes about two and a half hours. Madrid to Barcelona is around the same. You arrive in the middle of town, with no security queue and no transfer from the airport.

Several companies now run on the main routes, including Renfe, Ouigo and Iryo, so prices have come down. Book a few weeks ahead for the best fares.

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A few things that help

• Shops close in the afternoon in smaller towns, often from about two until five.
• Sundays are quiet. Many shops are closed, but museums and restaurants are open.
• Learn a few words. "Una caña, por favor" will get you a long way.
• Tipping is small. Rounding up or leaving a few euros for good service is plenty.

You will not fit all seven into one trip, and you should not try. Pick a region, go slowly, and stay out late. Spain does the rest.